As I told in the previous post in the morning we left Shkodra to head towards Lake Koman. Initially we drove across a beautiful highway, surrondend by towns, bars and retailers of used Mercedes. The idea was to reach Koman by car, take the ferry to get to Fierze, look for a place to sleep in that area between lakes and mountains and the next day reach Tirana, or if we had arrived late for the ferry, sleeping in Koman and catch the ferry the following day.
Left the highway we continued on SH25, a sign indicated that there were only 32Km to our destination. Our legendary Fiat 500 was climbing the mountains in this place out of reality. If you decide that you want to spend some time with no contact with civilization, this is the place for you, we have crossed kilometers of mountain road near a great river, blue with mirror effect, and trees, trees and more trees. Sometimes an isolated house or a village of a few houses, fenced, tidy and where everyone has fruit trees, vegetables, and animals.
Now you may wonder why such a place near the highway is so isolated, simple, the road is horrible, sometimes there is the asphalt, sometimes no, no shoulder, the asphalt slippery goes straight down the mountains, holes so big that you can take a bath inside them, and the closer you get to Koman is worse, it takes about 2 hours driving reckless, plus some (pleasant) unexpected meetings like this:
Once I established a relationship with herd of goats (is correct to say herd of goats, or the herd is for cows is only? Perhaps a flock of goats, or this is only for sheeps?) and politely asked them to move away from the roadway, everything went smoothly until the “country” of Koman, along the way we met a large fenced area with barbed wire, which we later found out to be a mine and a series of large circles formed by rubber pipes in the water, which still we do not know the purpose; of course we stopped several times to admire the view and take some pictures:
The last stretch of road start from Koman and climbs uphill on a narrow road remnant of a quarry, made from large stones (this is the only dangerous part of the road, where you have to go extremely slow), is near a high dam monitored by security agents dressed in a funny uniform and armed with a vintage firearm with the wooden handle. Near the dam, a tunnel carved into the mountain takes you to a parking lot where ferries depart.
Just parked the car a kind girl asked us in perfect Italian if we needed information, I asked in English about ferry, to allow even Principessa to understand, and in a good English it was explained us that because of the level too low the of lake, the ferry could not leave, it that day, and following 2 or 3 for sure, but that if we wanted we could do a private tour by boat, without car, and without going up to Fierze, at a price much higher than the ferry.
During a first comparison we smelled a rat, we thought that the ferry had already left, and that for this girl was better to sell us a private boat tour rather than make us wait the next day and take the ferry .. Ferry being used from local to carry everything, that for sure is cheap ..
We went back to the town and we asked other people about the ferry departure time, and all advised us to ask to pier because there was low level of water in the lake, so we were untrusting this girl, but she was honest … Here came the despair, we had come all this way with the horrible road certainty of not having to go back again, plus we were really curious about this trip on this ferry passing through lands untouched by any road, where the time stopped long time ago, where people do not have “heard” the Italian occupation or the German one, or Communism, or the modernization of these days; they live in the same way, in nature, thanks to the hard work regardless of Saturday and Sunday with the days marked only by sun and by night and the moon to indicate the seasons and the day to sow and reap.
I realize now that I have written a papyrus, am I long-winded? If yes, tell me, it’s the first time I am writing a blog, I’m not an expert ..
Always with a smile we went back, towards Tirana! But this I’ll tell you in the next post …